La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 23 August 2024.

 

 

No changes since the 16/08 update.

 

 

No major changes here either, the season for snow routes is over. However, there are some great climbs on 5-star rock to be had! 

 

 

The approach and climbing conditions remain good in all sectors. Petites and Grandes Jorasses are still being climbed. It's starting to get complicated to make water if you choose the bivouac option on the Cassin route. Also good conditions at the Aiguille de Leschaux and for the climbing routes around the refuge.

 

 

That's it for snow routes, even for Pointe Isabelle where a large rimaye blocks access. 

 

Activity is now concentrated on the Moine, Nonne and Evêque.

 

The rimaye on the Contamine on the Moine has opened up. You have to climb down inside before getting back on the rock. 

 

 

The Dru is no longer accessible by the glacier. The rest of the routes are fine. The Contamine on the Evêque rimaye has opened up but is still passable. The condition of the fixed ropes has deteriorated. 

 

The refuge is due to close on 1 September, but it remains to be seen whether this date will be brought forward depending on the weather conditions. Don't forget to call the refuge! 

 

 

Grépon - Mer de Glace: ok on the Envers Des Aiguilles side. However, it is no longer possible to avoid the ice on the Nantillons glacier, so abseiling on abalakovs is necessary in the upper part. 

 

The other sectors are all accessible!

 

 

Access to the refuge is still via the left bank initially. At the junction of the Leschaux glacier and the Tacul, go into the middle and then branch off perpendicularly opposite the ladders. Congo Star and Renaudie are still passable. For the latter, you'll need to take the 15 abseils. 

 

The refuge is closing this Sunday (25/08). Then 10 euros/night for the winter room. 

 

 

End of summer activity in the sector!

 

Still a few teams on the Rochefort - Grandes Jorasses traverse. The descent via the normal route is still relatively easy. Two passages require a little attention: under the Whymper rocks to get a foothold on the glacier and then on the Planpincieux glacier under the Reposoir rock (crevasses). A report on the route from 22/08 can be found here.

 

The Rochefort arête is dry (a little ice, unstable rock) which makes it more technical (you have to watch where you put your feet) than at the beginning of the season when conditions are optimal. We'd like to take this opportunity to remind you that the ratings for a route refer to optimum conditions!

 

Dent du Géant still crowded: at the risk of repeating ourselves, the access to the Salle à Manger is dry (which is not ideal) and you absolutely must stay on the right route.

 

The crossing of the Aiguilles d'Entrêves is crowded, beware of the crevasses on the approach before the Col d'Entrêves. For the Marbrées, always opt for the full traverse.

 

No news from the Arête du Diable.

 

There's climbing on the satellites. The rimayes are still going well (Grand Capucin, Pyramide du Tacul, etc.)

 

The traverse of the Vallée Blanche is still going well. Don't hesitate to take a low track and retrace your steps as the snow bridges are changing at the end of the season.

 

 

Mixed opinions on the 3 Monts: many dubious bridges in the upper part of the Tacul for some, no proplem for others. 

 

As the rimaye on Maudit has grown, it seems that the fixed rope is getting a bit short. There are currently 2 tracks in the lower section: one using the fixed rope and a second pulling right into the steep seracs. 

 

The upper part is still snow. 

 

The traverse to Pointe Lachenal looks like it is still practicable, although you will have to negotiate the rimaye and a section of ice to reach the first Pointe. 

 

 

The conditions on this route are typical of the end of the season.

 

The couloir is very dry and you need to cross it at the right time (as a reminder, the best time according to scientific studies is between 6am and 11am, which doesn't mean there aren't rockfalls).

 

The north-facing section of the Bosses Arête is out of the question. You have to go via the Mauvaise Arête (underlying ice, good steps).

 

 

Generally good conditions on this traverse: blue ice on the Col des Dômes, good track to the Bionnassay making progress easier, a few crevasses visible at the Piton des Italiens. Be careful if you descend via the Goûter couloir - timing is everything! 

 

 

Aiguille Croux: All good!

 

The Punta Innominata can be done there and back via the arête (rather than the descent via the Glacier du Brouillard).

 

That's it for the Ratti-Vitali.

Access to the Eccles is becoming increasingly complicated = not many people.

 

The Brouillard integrale can still be done by bivouacking at the Col Emile Rey to start the tricky pitches when its cool.

 

 

The Dômes out-and-back route is still passable, but for the traverse there's ice at the Col de la Bérangère. A report on our route notebook for the traverse on 20/08 can be found here.  

 

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

 

Gosh it's already the middle of August! While we wait for cooler temperatures to return, it's the end of the line for technical mixed routes....Solid rock climbing is good too :)

Glacier du Tour

Petite Fourche, Tête Blanche and Aiguille du Tour are still being climbed. The rimaye of the latter is opening up but is easy to cross. The col Supérieur du Tour is also starting to dry out. That's it for the Aiguille du Chardonnet. The "roture" (gap between snow and rock) below the abseil descent is very difficult to cross.

 

All the snow routes are finished! All the rock routes can be done without any problems. The Glacier du Milieu has become very tricky and you have to be careful with falling rocks. For the descent of the Jardin arête, it's better to take ‘La part des anges’ (60m technical abseil). This route is no longer recommended. Access to the refuge is via the ladders.

The Aiguille du Moine (including the normal route) remains in good condition. The E face is more complicated - Contamine-Labrunie and Aureille-Feutren routes - because of the rimayes. The Nonne traverse is still climbed, even though the rimaye is opening up more and more. The conditions change every day! Pointe Isabelle is still in good condition, but has been climbed very little. It's over for the big technical routes (Verte, Droites, Courtes), and even dangerous! (very open rimaye, rock falls etc...)

Access for hikers is very good. The rock routes behind the refuge are also fine. The Cassin route is still in good condition. Come up here, the guardian is waiting for you!

 

The glacier on the way to the Drus is still crossable (as high up as possible). Some rockfall on the Drus traverse. That's it for the W face. There are still teams on Contamine on the Evêque, which looks to be in condition. Ditto for Sale Athée, which still has snow in the access couloir.

Access to the refuge is from the left bank - 2 crevasses to cross - The Jonction to Torino has deteriorated badly! Access to the Dent du Requin is very good: Chapeau à Cornes arête complicated, lots of teams on the Renaudie (for the record, you can no longer branch off to the other side of the glacier, you have to take the 15 abseils). Lots of people on Congo Star.

The Grépon/République rimaye is still OK (by the rocks on the right) as is the Bec d'Oiseau rimaye. The descent via Les Nantillons is still passable, it's opening up and there are a few icy sections, but they are easy to get round. Otherwise nothing to report. Lots of good climbing up here.

The access is dry but you can still climb the Dent du Géant. For the Marbrées and Entrèves, it's best to opt for full traverses, because of the rimayes. The rimayes on the Grand Capucin, Pyramide du Tacul and Adolphe Rey are still fine. The arêtes du Diable are much less climbed, as it's very dry, especially in the couloir.

The Cosmiques arête is very dry! So is the arête Laurence, but it's still being climbed. Little activity on the Pointe Lachenal due to the dry conditions. The 3 Monts are still being climbed, there's still a fixed rope to get over the 1st rimaye on Maudit, but you have to go around the 2nd, as the bridge is now very fragile.

 

 

The Dôme glacier has deteriorated considerably in recent days. The glacier is very open and the snow bridges are fragile. There are frequent rockfalls below the Aiguilles Grises. In view of the conditions, the hut is closed, and the guardian will go back up when it's cooler.

Conditions on the Brouillard glacier are no longer good: rock falls, crevasses, dry arête! On the other hand, all the rock routes around the refuge are practicable except for the Pilier Rouge because of the access.

Overall conditions are still good. Following the rain, rockfalls resumed in the afternoons in the Grand Couloir, lets hope it will snow next time. Higher up, things are starting to open up, so the classic route is best for the 1st "bosse", then contour round to reach the Tournette.

 

The Dômes de Miage from the Conscrits are in pretty good condition for the season (see photo above) and the ‘belle arête’ is well covered in snow.

This is the end for the traverse, with quite a bit of ice at the Col de la Bérangère except for a small strip of snow that may not survive the next rainfall - be sure to know how to crampon - It's all over for the Aiguilles de Tré la Tête.

 

Durier sector

The Bionnassay arête is being climbed every day and is still snow (see photos above).

The Dômes de Miage are dry between the Col des Dômes and Durier, so beware of rock fall. 

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Over the last 2 weeks, we've seen a marked change in conditions in the high mountains, which is hardly surprising for August 9 in the 21st century. The opportunities for snow routes are shrinking, giving way to rock climbing. The zero isotherm for the next few days is around 5,000m, which isn't great for refreezing conditions. 

Its much better to go climbing on solid rock, which avoids worrying about refreezing and permafrost melt.

We continue to post daily on our news feed, so be sure to check it out here. 

It's now looking complicated to get back onto the glacier from the "new" Chardonnet abseil line. See news feed.

A detailed report on the Jardin arête in our route notebook. 

 

Around the Couvercle hut, activity is now concentrated on the Aiguille du Moine, where the rimaye is OK to cross. The high isotherm of recent weeks seems to have put an end to snow routes, with the exception of Pointe Isabelle which, according to Pinou the guardian, is still in good condition. Less activity also on the Moine ridge.

In the words of the hut guardian: "We've got superb conditions, the glaciers are great for accessing all the routes around the hut. 

Grandes Jorasses: Walker spur, (Cassin) ✅

Plenty of ice in the red chimney: 2 axes and ice screws recommended. 
Aiguille de Leschaux ✅
- Petites Jorasses ✅

- climbing routes above the refuge ✅
- Balcony path ✅
no more névés - refuge ✅✅✅

 

Photos available on the refuge's Facebook page. 

 

There's no snow on the American direct to be able to make water. See our news feed for more details on the artificial pitch. Several rock falls have been observed in recent weeks on the west face. A rock fall this morning (09/08), next to the normal route on the Petit Dru. 

From the refuge, the glacier is still ok to reach the foot of the Contamine and for the Drus traverse. Let's see how things develop. There is still some snow to access Sale Athée, so crampons are still needed. 

There's climbing everywhere. Opinions differ on the crossing of the rimaye Grépon Mer de Glace / voie normale de la République: some people thought it was fine, others not so much. On the other hand, conditions on the Nantillons glacier have deteriorated. Ice in some places, falling rocks in others. Efficiency and timing are vital. 

 

Lots of people on the Grand Capucin and its satellites. We still advise against climbing the Clocher and the Trident, as there are several signs of instability. Beware of the rimayes/rotures to gain a foothold on the rock. The Grand Cap rimaye is difficult to climb and there is a risk of falling rocks. For the left-hand routes, it is best to access via the "Francesco" terrace. 

There are also many teams on the Grandes Jorasses traverse, in both directions! Watch out for overcrowding on these routes. 

A fixed rope has been installed to cross the lower rimaye of Mont Maudit. The ice is starting to appear on the mur de la Cote. 

The Cosmiques Arête is now (too?) dry. 

 

The couloir is now dry, with few rockfalls so far. Between the Gouter refuge and the summit, it's still all snow. 

Durier 

Still good conditions on the Miage - Bionnassay - Mont Blanc traverse. No ice on the Miage and the end of the ridge is mainly dry. Bionnassay, also in good conditions, narrow as usual but a good track makes it a bit easier. 

 

South face of Mont Blanc 

Almost no snow on the S ridge of the Noire. 

There hasn't been much recent information between the Grand Pilier d'Angle and the Brouillard ridge. The sun and the temperatures must have done their job there too. 

Rockfalls were observed near the Innominata, and access to the Eccles seems to have deteriorated.  


On the hiking front, the fun continues, with the final points to watch out for being the Col de la Glière, Mont Buet and Col de Salenton, where the snow persists. 

 

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Summer is advancing and temperatures are soaring. But the mountains still look white and conditions are good above 4,000m. There has been a big change lower down, though. The wet spring weather had enabled us to gain a little time and preserve the conditions in the high mountains, but with the current heat everything is changing very quickly. 

La Chamoniarde are still posting daily on theirr news feed, so don't forget to check it here. 

Overview of the massif and surrounding area: 

 

 

All the snow has gone on the access path to the Albert Prem hut so its absolutely fine for walkers.

Arête Forbes 

 

A 15m section of blue ice on the "bosse". Its just over 50m between belays on the abseil line re-equipped by ENSA in 2023, so dont go off the end of the rope.

The Glacier du Milieu is ice, 2 bridges on the rimaye which pass on the RHS. At least 40m of the route is dry. There are still 3 belays on the right bank. Just ok with a 50m rope, better with a 60m.

 

Access to the Drus via the glacier is still OK. Make sure you go around the top to avoid the crevassed area and reach the start (where the abseil line arrives). Rock falls have been observed in the access couloir during the day. As for the rest, there's climbing everywhere! 

Good conditions on the Arête du Moine, the rimaye can be crossed on the left bank. Not many people on the Moine itself

With the temperatures the Whymper will be tricky. No one seen on Les Droites and Les Courtes. Rapid change observed. The summit mixed passage at Pointe Isabelle is very dry. 

Leschaux: 

The Cassin route on the Walker seems to be in good condition. The stable weather over the next few days could be ideal for climbing it. The Mont Mallet glacier is still in good condition. 


Envers des Aiguilles

A detailed review of the Grépon Mer de Glace here. Everything else is doable. Watch out for the snow/rock junction (roture) when you set foot at the start of the routes. 

 

The approach to the refuge via the Vallée Blanche is all snow. Allow 2.5/3 hours. 

Access to the foot of the Renaudie via the glacier/nevé is in good condition. The new abseil line is convenient and efficient. 

Congo Star: the torrent blocks access to the face. The guardians have installed a 50m abseiling line for access from the top. Ask the hut for more information. 

The Aiguille du Plan there and back from the refuge is in good condition. The first section is on ice. 

 

Everything else is climbable. 

There have been several rock falls in recent weeks in the Deux Aigles amphitheatre area, so the Peigne-Pélerins-Deux Aigles traverse has been affected and you need to have a sense of the route, a taste for adventure and loose rock to get through. This has also had an impact on the start gully of Davaille-Julien.

Crampons (or ice axes) can still be useful for accessing the red pillar of the Blaitiere.

The Nantillons glacier is still in decent condition, but you need to get there early.

 

 

Aiguille du Midi 

Still good conditions for the Mont Blanc via the 3 Monts (2 ice axes required). A fixed rope is in place on Mont Maudit at the rimaye in the middle of the face to make the climb easier.

The Cosmiques ridge is now (too?) dry. Choose the north-facing option to avoid the landslide zone. 

Access to the Arête du Diable has deteriorated rapidly: there is a gully through the rimaye. Then the traverse is dry and the terrain loose. In the couloir, you can hear the water flowing... Watch out for overcrowding!

 
The window of opportunity for the Kuffner is over? There's a 1.5m rimaye to cross, so you'll need to build a deadman. However, the rest of the route remains in good condition but is evolving very quickly. The upper part is now dry, so watch out for falling rocks. 

A lot of people on the Grandes Jorasses traverse. Access to the Dent du Géant is dry, so watch out for rockfalls (try to stay on the route). The Rochefort arête is still good, despite a bit of ice near the fixed rope. After that, conditions were generally good. Plenty of snow on the upper part of Pointe Young. The descent of the Walker is generally good, even if the serac seemed active a few days ago. The glacier above the Bocallate is OK. You need to descend early.

 

Mixed feedback and opinions for the Innominata. Good conditions for some, rescue for others.  

The ascent to the Eccles and the col are in good conditions. You still have to cross some impressive bridges, so it's better to stay on the left bank. There is an abseiling line between the bivouac and the glacier.

The pitches on the rock are generally dry. The cornices are small. All the snow sections are well tracked and refreeze well.

We crossed the Grand Couloir before dawn. It's still OK, although it's starting to get a bit icy and rocky. It's more comfortable with 2 ice axes.

 

Aiguille Blanche: Good conditions.  2x 60m abseils from col Eccles but ok with 50m ropes and downclimbing.  Then some gravelly diagonal descending to access upper Freney glacier.  We climbed the middle of the face at about grade 3-4 plus chossy moving together.  Might be better to climb the LHS and use bolted rap stations as runners/belays.  Looks about grade 5 but better rock.

Teams on the Pilier Rouge and the Freney pillar.

From today, 01/08, the hut will no longer be manned. "Winter room" with 16 places. The best route is the lower jonction, the plateaus and corridors were tracked this week. The North ridge of the Gouter is ice.

Mont Blanc via the Aiguille du Goûter 

 

"The Aiguille du Gouter couloir is alive and kicking", says the guardian. We're starting to see some significant rock falls. So timing is everything! Above the refuge, the conditions were still very good. Snowy, little ice. 

Good news from Plan Glacier: the Miage path via the Ours moraine has been restored and is now officially open. Its a route for walkers, cold drinks on arrival. 

Durier 

 

Not much water left near the refuge, so remember to take enough. It will still be possible to buy some at the refuge. The royal traverse is in good condition. 


Conscrits

Still good conditions for the Dômes de Miage, as well as for access to the Durier hut. There's still a small window of opportunity to get to Mont Tondu, which is changing rapidly! Around fifty metres of ice below the summit of the aiguille Nord de Tré la Tête. 

 

Enjoy it! The last snow-covered areas in the Aiguilles Rouges are the Col de Glière and the Col de Salenton. Lac Noir and Lac Cornu are still covered in snow. On the Swiss border, there is still snow on the Cheval Blanc and Col de la Terrasse. Poles and crampons are still required. 

The Petit Balcon Sud towards Parc Merlet has reopened, as have the climbing routes on the Brévent.

 

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

This is the weekly summary translated from the original French. Daily updates (in French only) may also be available on the Chamoniarde website.  

 

Summer is here at last: stable weather, little wind and a decent refreeze!

 

It's relatively warm: snow & mixed routes are changing, but the conditions are still good for the end of July in the 21st century! We'll have to keep an eye on the glaciers, rimayes and slopes. At the same time, the rock continues to dry out, particularly above 4,000m!

 

As far as hiking is concerned, almost everything is feasible!

 

 

 

Access to the Albert Prem is now completely dry, with only a tiny, residual snow patch below the hut. 

 

Chardonnet: the gullies are now completely dry. It's the end of the season for the Migot Spur, with a wide open rimaye and very dry above. The Forbes Arête is in good condition. There's just a bit of ice on the "Bosse", but otherwise everything's fine. Conditions are still quite good on the normal route.

 

The Aiguille du Tour is being climbed daily via the Arête de la Table and the normal route: nothing to report.

 

Good conditions on the normal routes of Petite Fourche and Tête Blanche (for information, the north face is no longer being climbed).

 

Aiguilles Dorées traverse: good general conditions but no further details.

 

 

 

As we announced last week, the access to the Argentière hut has been modified by adding 21m of ladders below the old ones to avoid climbing the moraine.

 

This is the end for the Flèche Rousse (very dry at the bottom).

 

You can still descend via the Glacier du Milieu if you get there early.

 

The rimaye on the Pointe des Améthystes is steep and technical, best done with 2 ice axes. The ridge is practically all snow.

 

The rock is nice and dry!

 

 

 

 

 

The Dru traverse is in good condition and the Contamine (see photo above).

 

‘The Charpoua glacier is still passable, but there are a few tricky sections, including a small jump to cross a crevasse,’ says the guardienne. (See photo below!)

 

 

 

 

 

Get to the hut by the true left bank of the Mer de Glace, then crossing to the right bank (just below the Envers ladders): this avoids crossing the river (bediere) in the middle of the glacier several times. It is best to use the ladders that go up to the balcony path (access is quite steep and there is some rope to get up to the ladders).

 

Nice rock climbing on the Moine and the Nonne-Evêque traverse: the rimayes are almost non-existent. 

 

Arête du Moine on the Verte: the rimaye doesnt look good but you can cross it on the RHS and then go back left to find the start of the route. There is still a little snow on the upper part: with good refreezing conditions, the route is feasible. 

 

Arête du Jardin: the rimaye is still passable, but there has been a rockfall. The letterbox no longer exists, it can be climbed with aid, but it's not the same.

 

Whymper Couloir: some teams failed at the start of the week, the rimaye is no longer crossable in ascent but can still be considered on the way down. 

 

No news yet from the Grands-Montets ridge. 

 

Pointe Isabelle: conditions remain good: the route is all snow (only the mixed terrain is a little dry). Just a reminder: don't hang around under the seracs!  

 

 

 

 

 

Access to the refuge via the balcon path is getting better and better (a few residual névés with no difficulties). Flexible ladders have been added at the bottom of the glacier access.

 

The Petites Jorasses and the Aiguille de Leschaux have been climbed with easy glacier access.

 

The granite behind the refuge is in good condition. 

 

The north face of the Grandes Jorasses hasn't been done yet. Looks like mixed conditions from the triangular névé upwards. Something to think about!

 

 

 

Almost everything is good!

 

The République/Grepon sector has dried out nicely, but watch out for crowds at the Tour Rouge bivouac.

 

Access to the Ryan ridge (Aiguille du Plan) is no longer possible, as the crevasse that runs along the access cone has opened up and no longer allows access to the wall above.

 

Requin: the glacier de l'Envers is still OK, zigzagging a little. 

 

The ascent and descent of the Vallée Blanche pose no problems. The glacier is still quite well filled in.

 

The Dent du Requin is being done a lot. A new access route has also been equipped to facilitate access to Congo Star when the torrents are too big (check with the refuge).

 

 

 

A few teams on the Jorasses traverse, probably still a lot of snow. The first pitches of Pointe Young are dry, but there's snow as soon as you switch to the north side.

 

No recent news from the other ridges (Hirondelles, Tronchey) even though there must be a lot of people there (thanks in advance for your feedback!)

 

Access to the Salle à Manger is drying out. Best to take off your crampons and take the right-hand side of the couloir. Be careful not to follow the old track that used to pull you left in the snow and which leads you into rotten terrain, but keep to the right along the edge of the spur.

 

The belays on the Dent du Géant have been re-equipped.

 

Tour Ronde: the Gervasuttti couloir may still be possible (to be confirmed). Use the full Freshfield Arête.

 

Quite a few teams on the Kuffner Arête, which is holding up well, and the Aiguilles du Diable traverse, which is drying out, both in good conditions (with refreezing, of course).

 

The Tacul satellites are fine, apart from an unstable zone at the top of the Clocher du Tacul with rockfalls on the routes below.

 

 

 

Good conditions on the Trois Monts, no ice. Two ice axes may be useful, especially for the descent.

 

The goulottes on the Triangle can be done early in good freeze conditions (Contamine - Grisolle quite good, Chéré: L1 very dry then good).

 

The Cosmiques Arête is drying out.

 

Midi-Plan still okay with a good refreeze (dry rock, no ice, one sandy section but it's short). A few teams on the traverse of the Aiguilles. As a reminder, following a rock fall, the route is no longer passable in the Blaitière - Plan direction on the ascent to the Dent du Caiman.

 

The Vallée Blanche is still relatively easy. Take the lower track between the Col Flambeau and the Pointe Adolphe Rey (large crevasse that's opening up, see photo below).

 

 

 

 

 

This is the end for the Frendo Spur (dry exit).

 

As for the rest, it's all good!

 

The Nantillons glacier is still in good condition, with just a little blue ice.

 

 

 

Last week for the hut (closes on 1 August). Guaranteed solitude for those contemplating a wild Mont Blanc! The last diehards have apparently put their skis away (icy below the Petit Plateau, so it's not so easy to ski!)

 

The path across the glacier has wands. There are still a few teams on the N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter (20m of ice at the top!) The plateaux are also tracked, as are the Corridors (on foot).

 

 

 

Conditions are holding up.

 

The Goûter couloir is full of snow. Make sure you get there early (on the way there and on the way back). Then it's dry all the way to the refuge.

 

 

 

Great conditions up here!

 

Plan Glacier is still only accessible via the Col de Tricot and the sentier des Contrebandiers. The glacier leading up to Durier goes well, and after that it's generally dry.

 

The Tricot ridge looks dry up to the Pointe Supérieure, after which it's all snow!

 

Latest information on the Bionnassay traverse in our cahier de course.

 

The Durier refuge is full all week!

 

Access to the Conscrits only via the summer path!

 

The Tré-la-Tête glacier is OK, but watch out for the snow bridges, which are bound to change soon.

 

Dômes de Miage traverse in optimum conditions: no ice, good route down to the Col de la Bérangère, the ridge back up to the Bérangère is a good mix of rock and snow that climbs well with crampons. The descent to the refuge is down snow: the knees are very pleased!

 

Good conditions for the traverse of the Aiguilles de Tré-la-Tête! Like many routes, don't follow the guidebook. Climb to the right of the serac (which means you have to pass underneath it, but it is not very threatening, see photo below) to get to the aiguille N. A bit of ice on the summit ridge, then good conditions. The descent via the Col des Glaciers is still all snow!

 

It's a little drier on the Mont Tondu side, particularly on the lower ledges (it can be a good idea to keep your crampons on in this sandy-gravel terrain).

 

 

 

 

 

Aiguille Grise route in good conditions! Good route, the glacier still passes well, exit slope on the ridge and snow ridge.

 

Teams on the Tournette Spur report good conditions. From now on you need to go via the rocky spur as the Y-shaped couloir is dry and not very inviting (rock falls).

 

 

 

The via ferrata up to the Borelli bivouac has been re-equipped. One belay is missing and the cables are partly in the snow at the Col Chasseur: crampons and ice axe are needed to cross the névé.

 

The Freney glacier is not easy but can be crossed. The Ratti-Vitale can be climbed.

 

South ridge of Aiguille Noire: névé to get onto the ridge. “Snow on the Pointe Brendel and in the couloir below Pointe Bich."

 

The Peuterey integral has been done. The Eccles couloir is becoming less and less popular. You need a good freeze and an early start for the outing because it's getting very hot.

 

Aiguille Croux and Punta Innominata OK.

 

The Eccles bivouac was overcrowded, but access via the glacier was good. Good conditions on the Innominata. A number of teams failed below the Col Emile Rey to access the Brouillard ridge (snow-laden slope). Teams on the Brouillard integral, to be continued! The Pilier Rouge is being climbed (access from the bottom is not possible, you have to go via Eccles + 2 abseils; pitch 9 is a bit wet). The Brouillard ridge is tracked out all the way to the summit. Quite a lot of snow, but there have been teams on the Freney pillar, but no further information.

 

 

 

All the footpaths are now clear of snow, apart from the Col de la Glière, which can still be a problem.

 

The Salenton / Buet sector is still covered in snow, but is not a problem if you have proper boots.

 

On the Tour du Mont Blanc, there is still a little snow around the Val d’Arpette and at the foot of the Brévent ladders.

 

The section of the Petit Balcon Sud between Les Bossons and Merlet has reopened!

 

The tricky passage under the Chalet des Pyramides has been secured with a chain.

 

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.