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This report is based on information received following the resumption of activity in the high mountain.


After the storms there was a period of cold weather, but the temperatures have risen significantly today. The new snow has on the whole improved conditions but remember the season is ending. Vigilance is needed on the glaciers; the new snow can conceal the weak snow bridges and some crevasses.  The rock routes exposed to the sun are climbable again.

 

Aiguille du Midi Sector

 

There has been climbing on the  S face of the Aig du Midi.  There is some snow on the ledges, but the rock is mainly dry. Conditions have improved, for the time being, on the Cosmiques Arete and the traverse of the Pointes Lachenal (the 3 Pointes), both of which are retracked. On the Tacul, a party turned back yesterday due to knee deep snow after the 1st bergschrund. A party today crossed the 1st bergschrund in the middle and went up the lefthand side, (looking upwards.)
A party turned back at the second pitch on the Chéré Gully, (a lot of snow on top of the ice): A second party attempted the Tacul, crossing the bergschrund in the middle and going left up under the Triangle. (No further information yet.)   

The traverse of the Valley Blanche was re-tracked yesterday. 

Torino Sector

The Marbrées and Entrèves traverses are being done again, as has the Rochefort Ridge. Likewise, there is climbing on the Dent du Géant.   (Take care on the unstable terrain at the level of the Salle à Manger and above the bergschrund.)

 

Envers des Aiguilles Sector

The rock has dried well, and climbing is possible everywhere in this sector.  This morning there was a party on the Mer de Glace face of the Grepon.  The bergshrund goes once more on the right, then traverse to the left.  There is some snow on the ledges, but this is not a problem for the climb.  No information for the descent of the Nantillons glacier.

 

Conscrits Sector

The Tondu was re-tracked two days ago, the conditions being easier due to the new snow.
The Dômes de Miage traverse was done this morning in good conditions, (no ice for the moment!)

 

Chamonix Aiguilles

The ledges of the Pilier Rouge de Blaitière look to still have some snow, though a lot disappeared today.
Snow remains on the ledges on the Peigne normal route. No further information for this sector, which is taking time to dry in some areas.

 

Mid Mountain

The hiking conditions were not affected by the recent snowfall and remain excellent.

Please note that the Remuaz path between  Col des Montets and the cairn at Tête aux Vents will be closed from 7 to 11 September.