Report 6th February 2018

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Created: Thursday, 08 February 2018 08:54

Since the last update, there was snowfall on 2^nd February of about 30cms at 2000m.

Ski touring has since been very popular in the Argentière, Tour and Aiguilles Rouges sectors.

Chamoniarde has received the following information:

- when descending the true left bank of the Tour Glacier, (e.g. from the Col du Passon), it is best to exit to the right, (below the glacier.)

- Valley Blanche conditions:  the snow quality is bad, (crusty / corrugated).  The wind has caused numerous crevasses to reappear, often partially hidden by “cock’s combs”, (icy ridges.)

- at the entry into the “salle à manger” under the Requin hut, there is a particularly treacherous crevasse, take care! 

- there are now 2 ropes installed on the Aig du Midi ridge and the descent with crampons goes well. The « Z » track is still under construction.

AC / CC Ice Meet in L’Argentiere La Bessee

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Created: Sunday, 04 February 2018 08:56

The AC / CC Ice Meet in L’Argentiere La Bessee started out with 3 days of appalling weather, raining at valley level and dumping lots of snow higher up. The main areas of Fornell and Freissenieres were not easily accessible. At this stage the trip was already spoilt by the loss of our leader to the flu. Smiler couldn’t come. By the end of day three everyone had found something to climb or ski on but spirits were low. Then it all changed. Clear skies and lower temperatures brought a smile to everyones faces. 

Report 31 January 2018

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Created: Thursday, 01 February 2018 16:24

There has been a lot of activity during the recent good weather, which now is due to deteriorate for the next few days.

Ski touring conditions have generally been good with most of the classic routes tracked.  Snow quality varies according to altitude and aspect.

The cols in the Argentière sector have been done, including the 3 Cols.  (foresee a 30m abseil from the Col du Chardonnet.)
There has also been activity at the Col des Cristaux , Col des Courtes and the NE face of the Courtes.
Tête Blanche was done via the Col du Passon.  The descent to La Tour is good, apart from the lower part where conditions are pretty average.

A lot of activity in the Aiguilles Rouges, no further information on the snow quality.

The Buet and Col de la Terrasse are tracked. The climb up to Loriaz is exclusively by the forestry track. The path leading off to the right between Les Granges and la Croix de Loriaz is closed by a council order.
If descending by Tré les Eaux, a rope is needed to cross the torrent.  Bel Oiseau from La Léchère is tracked.

The Vallée Blanche is popular. For the moment, only the crest of the ridge is equipped with safety ropes.   Brèche Puiseux and the Col du Tacul are in good condition.
The descent to Chamonix via Les Mottets is good for the moment.  It has been “piste bashed” but care is still needed.

No information concerning the alpine gullies; the faces still look very dry.

Ice Climbing:  Cogne has the best conditions, though there has been some activity on the Rive Gauche of the Argentière Glacier (EMHM, Mini Couloir, Tequila Stuntman, Crèmerie).

 Snow Shoeing:  Conditions are OK though the snow is fairly hard, crusty or icy depending on the sector and altitude

A big thank you to those people who have contributed to the online route book.

Elizabeth Hawley

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Created: Friday, 26 January 2018 20:27

Elizabeth Hawley, for most mountaineers on their way to climb in the Nepalese Himalaya, was like a venerable aunt you did not want to cross. She was made an Honourary Member of the Alpine Club in 2013. Many expedition leaders will remember a knock on their Kathmandu hotel door that awoke them from a jet lagged slumber. "Miss Hawley is waiting downstairs to see you sir," the deskman would say. Liz knew when you were in town and where. She would greet you cordially in a crisp, no nonsense American accent that spoke of both an excellent education and impeccable manners. She was a petite woman with aquiline features, glasses always perched halfway down her nose. Peering over those glasses, her eyes interrogated you as much as her questions. She never missed a chance to extract every ounce of information about your plans over tea and toast. In return, Liz gave us the latest news; who was where; doing what; tips on unexpected access or porter problems.

Alpine Club Oberland Meet 2018

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Created: Thursday, 25 January 2018 20:21

Oberland, Switzerland

Saturday 23rd June - Saturday 7th July

Details of the Oberland Meet are now confirmed. Aimed at all members, both aspirant members who are looking to gain more experience with a view to completing their AC 20 alpine peaks, and full members who might have taken a break from alpine climbing and are looking to return to the action. The meet is aimed at all skill levels, and the Bernese Oberland is a great location for picking off numerous PD routes, and for developing an alpine CV.

Report 25th January 2018

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Created: Thursday, 25 January 2018 13:39

After several weeks of severe weather, things are slowly returning to normal.  To check on the latest situation for the lifts click here. .

With the better weather, there is again activity in the mountains.

Vallée Blanche: A single fixed rope has been in place on the ridge since 24th January.  The conditions remain variable, requiring a very good ski technique.  The lift from the ice caves back up to Montenvers is still closed, making it necessary to return via les Mottets.

As well as damaging the lift installations, the winds have stripped the mountain faces.  The Tacul Triangle, the Tour Ronde and the Grand Jorasses are grey, (bare ice.)

At Argentière, the top lift at Grand Montets is still closed for maintenance.  To reach the Argentière glacier one needs to set off from the top of the Herse or the Bochard.  The Cols du Tour Noir and Passon are tracked, no further information.

Ice Climbing:   EMHM and Déferlante have been climbed but the Rive Droite still looks out of condition.

Ski Touring: Conditions should soon improve, Flégère has only just re-opened and the OHM/Chamoniarde has not received any news about the tours in the Aiguilles Rouges.  

The way up to Loriaz and the Bosse des Charmoz is tracked.  It is necessary to remove the skis to get past some fallen trees. Only the forest track is allowed, the summer path between Granges and La Croix is closed by an arrêté municipal.

Snow Shoeing:  The signposted routes are accessible. There are sections of bare ice on the footpaths along the valley floor; hiking poles and maybe small crampons, are advisable.   

The Chamoniarde relies on your feedback to create the updates.  Please do not hesitate to write up your outings in the cahier de courses  or give them a phone call. Whether the conditions were good or bad, the information is always useful and most welcome. 

Richard Gilbert

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Parent Category: People in the news

Created: Wednesday, 24 January 2018 11:34

We are saddened to receive news of the death of our member, Richard Gilbert.

Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

Young Alpinist / Alpine Climbing Group - January 2018 Winter Meet

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Created: Wednesday, 17 January 2018 18:10

The ACG/YAG winter meet was a great success with teams getting out on both days of the weekend. Mixed classics such as North Buttress on the Buachaille, Neanderthal in the Lost Valley, Chimney Route, Original Route, Scabbard Chimney, Crest Climb on Stob Coire, Flake Route and Crypt Route on Church Door Buttress and Cutlass on the Ben were climbed.

Report 12 January 2018

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Created: Friday, 12 January 2018 19:29

At last the good weather has returned!

Be careful along the valley floor, there is hard packed snow with patches of bare ice on the footpaths. This is the case up to about 1800m

Ski Touring:   In the Aiguilles rouges the cols Belvédère – Dards – Crochues Bérard are tracked. Depending on altitude and aspect, the snow can be crusted, and becoming heavy below, 2300m.

The cols Cicle and Fenêtre at Contamines are also tracked.

Aiguillette des Posettes by the Ardoisières : take care at the start, hard snow with frozen avalanche debris, (not for beginners.)

Argentière Sector: The top cable car at Grands Montets is still not open (12^th January) due to security checks following the storms.  It has been reported that, following 6 days of snow, the cols look to be OK except for the glacier du Milieu. 

Clearly, a lot of other ski tours are now tracked, though we have not received any information for the moment.

Vallée Blanche: It is being skied! The ridge is not yet equipped, (some stakes only) and the route has a mountaineering feel to it at the start of this season. The level of snow cover is generally good. The «Salle à Manger » is OK.  The way to the Mottets is tracked.  There is some verglas on the track down to Chamonix.  

Ice climbing:  Parties have gone to the Cremerie and Argentiere Rive Gauche, no further information for the moment.

Winter Mountaineering and Gullies:  No information for the moment.

This update is brief, and is limited by the amount of information received by the OHM.

Report 8th January 2018

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Created: Wednesday, 10 January 2018 07:35

A quick update on conditions following the violent storms.

Most of the lifts will remain closed, (especially the Aiguille du Midi and Grands Montets) for several days, therefore limiting mountain activity.  

Since the large snowfalls at the end of December it has been unseasonably warm with the snow/rain limit is around 2500m. 

In the high mountain there have been violent winds with gusts over 200 km/h at the Aiguille du Midi; greatly affecting the snow cover.

The faces and gullies remain extremely dry and there is very little snow on the glaciers, especially lower down.

Vallée Blanche: The ridge is not equipped but the route has been skied on a few occasions.  A high level of expertise, together with excellent glacier skills are essential.
Le Pas de Chèvre: The exit is totally impractical, the moraines have no snow and are unstable.

Below 3000 m, there is a good snow cover but with the unseasonably high temperatures and the rain, the conditions are mediocre.  Sharp edges on your skis are recommended!

Ice climbing: The Cremerie is more like a site for canyoning.   On the Rive Droite, (Argentiere), it looks like the lower part of Icelander has collapsed and there is a large fracture line at the foot of Grand Bleu.

Ski touring: The snow is generally good for skiing in the high mountain.  At mid altitudes, the snow is less accommodating, (hard and crusty).

The paths along the valley floor and the marked snow shoe trails are accessible, but take care as there are sections with bare ice.  

More unstable weather is forecast for the next few days with wind at altitude, (the foehn has already been blowing for two days,) but without much snow.

Please do not forget to inform the OHM of your outings and conditions experienced.

Report 30th December 2017

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Created: Saturday, 30 December 2017 13:24

The weather continues unsettled and frequent snowfalls are accompanied by strong winds at altitude.  Over the past 3 days there has been a significant increase to the snowpack, (one and a half metres at 2000m).  A marked warm spell is now present.

The avalanche risk is high this weekend.

Be cautious!  The conditions are unusual and difficult to analyse.  Consult BERA, (Avalanche Risk site) or the professionals and be properly equipped, (transceiver, shovel, probe as a minimum.)   If in doubt, go with a guide.   

Ski touring and snow shoeing: be aware that the weight of the snow could bring down trees.

You are reminded that access to the ski areas is forbidden other than during the official opening hours.  This is because of the activities of the piste bashers, PIDA. (purging by the avalanche patrol) etc.  This includes the lower slopes, (e.g Nants piste, Trapette).

The prepared ski touring tracks are closed for the moment, (except for the one at Les Houches.)

Report 22nd December 2017

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Created: Friday, 22 December 2017 19:57

Since the last update on the 8th of December a lot of snow has fallen, often with strong winds at mid and high altitudes.  50 to 60 cms has settled at the valley floor and over a metre at 1800/2000m.

The avalanche risk is significant above 2000m.  Consult the bulletin from B.E.R.A  (avalanche assessment) and the weather forecast before setting out.  Take care, a rise in temperatures is expected this weekend.

Activity in the mountains is slowly increasing, especially ski touring.
The Aiguillettes des Houches, the Posettes and the 4x4 track up to the Loriaz Chalets are tracked. (More info in the OHM route book ).  The Petit Croisse Baulet, near Megeve, has also seen some activity.
The snow is very variable, depending upon aspect and altitude, but overall the conditions are good.

No information for the high mountain, the second stage of the Aig du Midi lift has only just opened and the Grand Montets top lift is due to open on 23 December.  Looking at the webcams, the faces still appear to be grey and very dry.

Vallée Blanche: The ridge is not yet equipped, but the route has been skied, (no further information.)  Without a perfect knowledge of the area and competency in glacier travel, it is recommended to wait a while or hire a guide.

Concerning ice climbing, no specific information has been received though it appears that there has been a bit of activity at the Crèmerie and the Cascade de Bérard.  For the moment, Cogne could be the better option. 

For snow shoers, the signposted routes are accessible with sufficient snow to start from the valley floor.  

Do not forget to report your experiences on the Chamoniarde /OHM online route book.  It only takes a few minutes and helps fellow alpinists

Chamoniarde takes this opportunity to wish everybody a Happy Christmas

Calling all Alpinists!

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Created: Tuesday, 19 December 2017 20:12

Report 8th December 2017

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Created: Friday, 08 December 2017 17:05

Latest update

10 cms of wet snow at the valley floor.

20 cms of wind affected snow, (strong winds from the SW,) at 2000m.

About 40cms of windblown snow at 3000m, (very strong winds from the NW/W.)

This is encouraging news for off piste skiers, ski tourers and snow shoers for the weekend.  Also, many of the   ski lifts are opening this weekend . 

ATTENTION :  there is a high risk of windslab avalanche  both in the mid and high mountain.  The snow conditions give rise to concern.  There is no cohesion in the underlying snow layer and more snow is expected over the next days. 

Therefore, take care.  BERA has not yet published avalanche risk figures.  Take time to use the information available to make the right assessment for your planned activity,  snow and avalanche information.

Report 27th November 2017

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Created: Thursday, 30 November 2017 17:18

The snow cover is gradually deepening.

There is not much snow in the base of the valley. It is only above1800/2000m that one can really use skis or snow shoes.  The snow cover is very variable, so be careful of stones/rocks just below the surface.  Nonetheless, if you accept this limitation, there is good skiing to be had above 2000m.

Concerning the high mountain, Chamoniarde has not received any information.  The Skyway Monte Bianco (Italy) opens 1st December and the Torino refuge on the 2nd.  Hopefully, information on conditions will follow soon after.

There has been some ice climbing at the Crèmerie (true left bank of the Argentière glacier.) No further information.  Please remember that access to this area is by foot from the Grands Montets car parking. The Rosière road is restricted to clients of CMBH and the Crémerie restaurant.

The Company du Mont Blanc has announced limited opening this weekend at Lognan and Les Houches.

Young Alpinist / Alpine Climbing Group - January 2018 Winter Meet

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Created: Tuesday, 28 November 2017 08:49

The Alex Mac hut is booked for the weekend of 13th/14th of January for the January Young Alpinist/Alpine Climbing Group winter meet.

Report 21st November 2017

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Created: Friday, 24 November 2017 20:10

There is still not much snow in the mountains for the time of year, though things should improve from this weekend onwards. 

There has been very little activity reported from the higher mountains and the information received indicates a great variation in conditions from one sector to another. There have been strong winds at altitude, stripping the snow in some areas and dumping it in others

On north facing slopes above 2000m one risk floundering in deep snow even with snow shoes, while on the south faces the snow is variable, bare in some places and knee deep elsewhere.  Some paths, even at lower altitudes, maybe iced over in places.  Whatever the activity, the current, difficult conditions require the correct equipment.

It is still too early to ski tour in the Chamonix valley, have patience.

Report 12th November 2017

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Created: Monday, 13 November 2017 21:17

A chain of weather fronts is gradually building up snow levels at altitude.
There are 30cms of snow at 2000m and more above this.  

This snow was accompanied by strong N to NE winds, causing drifting and windslab above 2000m.  The avalanche risk is 3/5.  At mid mountain the snow cover in insufficient for ski touring but snow shoes could be useful above 2000/2200m.

Concerning the lifts, only the Montenvers train is running.  Check the timetable first.

Winter is slowly coming; take care, be patient.  

Alpine Club 2017 Photo Competition Results

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Created: Monday, 13 November 2017 14:51

2017 Sumur Lungpa Expedition

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Created: Thursday, 09 November 2017 08:08

After a multi-day trek up the steep Sumur Lungpa to establish a base camp by the Sumur Lakes at 5,160m, Derek, Drew, Rafal and Howard made the first ascent of Point 6068 via its technically easy SW slopes (Alpine F) on 18th September following an arduous 5h of post-holing from a high camp at 5,743m. Deceptively, this top turned out to be the high point of three convergent ridges rather than a true peak per se and was thus called Deception Point. We were unable to get a Ladakhi translation. Only roped glacier travel was required.