The Alpine Club, the world’s first mountaineering club, was founded in 1857.  For over 150 years, members have been at the leading edge of worldwide mountaineering development and exploration. 

With membership, experienced and aspiring alpinists benefit from a varied meets programme, regional lectures with notable guest speakers, reduced rates at many alpine huts, opportunity to apply for grants to support expeditions, significant discounts at many UK retailers, extensive networking contacts, access to the AC Library and maps - and more! 

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News

Report 19th January 2019

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Parent Category: News
Created: Monday, 21 January 2019 03:18

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 19/01/2019

The bad weather the previous weekend, together with that on Thursday, has greatly improved the skiing conditions. The amount of snow fallen varies from one sector to another, for example there is less snow at Vallorcine.

The ski domains are in near perfect condition; blue skies, well prepared pistes and not too many people.  However, still take care, particularly in controlling one’s speed.  Also check the bulletin on the Compagnie du Mont Blanc site to see what is open!!

Good conditions for ski touring, though the snow quality can be unreliable, (wind slab in places,) and there are still snow some icy patches away from the snow bowls.  (This can also mean a hard base with rocks just below the surface in some areas.)  It is now possible to put on the skis directly from the valley start.

All the Aiguilles Rouges classics, (Col de la Terrasse, Mont Buet, Col de Beugeant, Col des Dards & du Belvédère, Crochues-Bérard, Brèche de Bérard, Col de la Floria, Col de la Glière, Aiguillette des Houches) and in the Argentière sector, (Col du Passon, Col du Chardonnet there and back, Col du Tour Noir) are tracked.

Concerning the Aiguille du Midi, the ridge is still not equipped (only some stakes in place).  It is still early season, crevasse danger. There are some exposed rocks on the Mer de Glace but the following ski back down to Chamonix is good. The Mottets Buvette is open for the season, as is the Requin hut.

Ice climbing is possible in the usual sectors: Trient (Pétoudes), Argentière (left and right banks, Crémerie) and Les Contamines. In the Aosta valley, the icefalls below 1800m are not well formed.  However, the lack of snow means those higher up are more easily accessible than usual.

 No information concerning the mixed routes; still not in condition!!!

Lastly, conditions for snow shoeing, ski du fond and winter hiking are good.

Christopher Simpson

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Parent Category: People in the news
Created: Wednesday, 16 January 2019 14:19

It is with sadness that we report the news of the death of our member, Christopher Simpson.

Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

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Report 10 January 2019

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Parent Category: News
Created: Thursday, 10 January 2019 21:18

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 10/01/2019

Though large amounts of snow have fallen in Eastern Europe, we are still waiting for conditions to significantly change in the Western alps.

The last snowfall gave 20cms of light snow at 2000m, improving conditions both on and off piste, (take care the underlying base is hard.)

Ski touring is popular, despite the variable snow depths.  Ski crampons remain essential.  Still some walking for Loriaz and Bel Oiseau.  In the Contamines Montjoie valley, the roman road is bare ice, (crampons.).

The wind over the last few days has caused drifting, especially in the high mountain.  Do not forget to check the weather forecast and avalanche risk before each outing.

More snow is forecast for this weekend.

In the high mountain conditions the faces and gullies remain extremely dry. Patience needed!

Ice Climbing: The right and left banks of the Argentiere glacier are OK but the Cremerie and Berard still do not have much ice.

With the lack of snow, the signposted snow shoe tracks are accessible for walkers. Lightweight crampons could be useful, even essential in some places, together with good boots and hiking poles. This should allow one to walk up to 1500m without too much problem. 

Be warned that despite the lack of snow the paths at higher altitude, such as the Grand Balcons or to the Lakes, are not feasible for hikers or snow shoers. 

Report 4th January 2019

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Parent Category: News
Created: Friday, 04 January 2019 23:56

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 04/012019

 

The period of high pressure continues, meaning the conditions have not improved since the last update. 

The snow remains very hard (concrete), both on the piste and beyond.

Ski touring continues in the same sectors : Bel Oiseau and Loriaz (some walking), Mont Buet/ Col de Bérard (thin snow cover and patchy lower in the valley), Aiguillette des Posettes via Ardoisières, from the Index/Flégère (Crochues-Bérard, Col des Dards, Col du Bélvédère, Col de Beugeant), Lacs Noirs et Aiguille de la Glière from Cornu, Aiguillette des Houches from the Brévent, Argentière  sector (via Grands-Montets,) Col du Passon there and back, Col du Chardonnet, Col du Tour Noir, Col d'Argentière).

Though the above routes are not very technical, even the easiest amongst them are not currently suitable for beginners because of the difficult snow conditions, (risk of falling both in ascent and descent). Good technique, sharp edges and ski crampons are essential.

Of the signposted ski touring routes, only the one at La Tour is in reasonable condition (and even this requires ski crampons.) 

Conditions for snow shoeing are not favourable, (poor snow cover, hard snow.)  Nonetheless, it is possible to go up to the Loriaz chalets or do a loop at the Prarion summit.  Most of the paths signposted by the Compagnie du Mont Blanc are open:  Aiguillette des Posettes from the Vallorcine ski bubbles and the Autannes loop (Balme domain,) Index loop and the Raverettaz (Flégère domain.).

Hiking is possible in the valley up to about 1500m, (Petit Balcon sud, the Floria, cabane du Cerro. The paths have hard snow or ice, (good boots, hiking poles and small crampons necessary.)  It is possible to venture as far as Chapeau buvette, the Loriaz chalets, (both open), or the Chailloux chalets.

Conditions for ice climbing have improved these last few days thanks to the cold spell.  No precise details, but there are possibilities at Trient, (Odeyi, les Pétoudes), Argentière (Crèmerie, Left and right banks):  Risk of overcrowding.  The Loriaz and Picheu icefalls look to be formed.

In the high mountain, activity is limited to the Marbrées traverse and Cosmiques Ridge, (possible to avoid last summer’s rock fall area by going directly up the gully to the right of the Cosmiques Spur,) There are some other possibilities e.g. Chéré, Burnier Vogler, Pélissier, though these are very dry.

There is more precise information in the Chamoniarde Route Book.

John Temple

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Parent Category: People in the news
Created: Thursday, 03 January 2019 12:33

News has reached us of the death of Club Member John Temple.

Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

 

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Report 21 December 2018

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Parent Category: News
Created: Saturday, 22 December 2018 08:12

Some information for the start of the winter season.

 

The Chamonix Ski Domain:

The Aiguille du Midi cable car, the Montenvers train and all of the Tour-Vallorcine  ski area are open from Saturday onwards.  There is plenty of snow above 1300m and conditions for skiing and snow shoeing are good. 

 

The Grands Montets cable car will be closed for the season, making the top of the Bochard lift the upper limit of the secured ski area.  The “Point de Vue” and “Pylones” pistes will not be opened, this season, making this a high mountain area.  This area will not be signposted, checked for hazards or have safety patrols. Despite rumours to the contrary, there will not be a secured ski touring track put in place giving access to this area.

 

Though the Midi lift is open, it is still too early to ski the Vallee Blanche (weak snow bridges).

 

The Loriaz hut opens this weekend, the Lognan hut is foreseen to open on Christmas day.

 

The forecast for the next few days is for warm, damp weather with the snow/rain limit around 2000m. Above this be aware of accumulated snow with the associated avalanche risk.

 

Ski touring is feasible above 1500m, for example, the Col de Cicle, Col des Dards, Bel Oiseau, Col du Passon, and Col du Tour Noir.  No precise information for the Berard valley but it is possible to ski back to the road.

 

No news for the alpinists, conditions appear to be still desperately dry, (Argentière sector, Chardonnet etc.).

Some of the icefalls are formed at Cogne.  (N.B. the Money sector is closed because of a nesting bearded vulture,) and Valsavarenche.

 

Sue Baldock

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Parent Category: People in the news
Created: Friday, 30 November 2018 18:27

It is with sadness that we report the news of the death of our member, Sue Baldock, on the 25th November.

Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website

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Ian (Pin) Howell

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Parent Category: People in the news
Created: Friday, 30 November 2018 12:15

We are saddened to receive news of the death of our member, Ian (Pin) Howell, who died suddenly and unexpectedly on Tuesday, November 27th.

Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website

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100th Anniversary of the Cambridge University Mountaineering Club

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Parent Category: News
Created: Tuesday, 20 November 2018 20:38

The club’s 100th anniversary was celebrated on 19th June 2005 with a dinner held at St Catherine’s College. Following this meeting a number of articles were written by CUMC alumni to create the CUMC 100th Anniversary edition journal. This contains a series of fascinating accounts of the history of the club, the talented mountaineers involved, and the incredible trips that alumni have been a part of. The full series of articles can be found HERE.

www.cumc.org.uk

 

Report 15th November 2018

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Parent Category: News
Created: Friday, 16 November 2018 12:16

A quick update before the weekend:

The snow continues to recede on the lower slopes. There should be no problem when hiking below 2500m on the south side and 2000m on the north side.  The paths under the cables of the Plan Joran lift are closed by local council order from 20th to 30th November.  The paths under the cables of the

Plan de l'Aiguille lift are also closed, (the only access is via Blaitière)

It remains feasible to climb in the Aiguilles Rouges, though it is getting significantly colder.  The approach is on foot because all the lifts in the valley are closed, except for the Montenvers train.

No recent information received for the high mountain, though it seems there has been some activity around the Aiguille du Tour. No information for the mixed routes.  

There is partial opening in nearby ski resorts in Switzerland, (Verbier, Zermatt, Saas Fee) and Italy (Cervinia, Monterosa Ski). Ski touring is also possible in some of the valleys (e.g. Valgrisenche, Valtournenche...). Here in Chamonix one needs to wait a bit more before getting out the skis.

British Minya Konka Expedition 2018

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Parent Category: News
Created: Wednesday, 14 November 2018 22:04

In late September myself and Nick Bullock headed out to Sichuan to attempt the first ascent of the south face of Minya Konka. Despite only having been climbed by the relatively straightforward north east and north west ridges, the mountain has a very dubious reputation for the number of people who have died while attempting it. 

Read more: British Minya Konka Expedition 2018

Kendal Mountain Festival

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Parent Category: News
Created: Monday, 12 November 2018 11:48

The Alpine Club is hosting a dedicated session at the upcoming Kendal Mountain Festival. 

Split into two parts the first half will be hosted by John Porter and Brian Hall. They will try to keep their old friends "the Burgess twins" Aid and Al at bay when they recount their legendary old and new tales. A rare visit to Europe by the twins- and certainly a promise of high class entertainment.

The second half of the session will be a lively panel discussion with Mick Fowler, Tom Livingstone, Dr. Melanie Windridge and Banff Festival director Jo Crostonon the influence of social media in the mountain world. Jonny Dry will be moderating.

The session will held  on Sunday the 18 November from 12:30 to 2:30pm at the Kendal Town Hall. More information and tickets are available via this link

 http://www.mountainfest.co.uk/programme/event/tales-from-the-alpine-club

 

Takphu Himal

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Parent Category: News
Created: Thursday, 08 November 2018 09:07

This group (part of the southern end of the Nalakankar Himal)  lies in the very furthest NW corner of Nepal  (just south of Gurla Mandhata 7694m) geographically in Tibet whilst politically in Nepal.  It is trans-Himalayan rather like Dolpo or Mustang.

Julian Freeman-Attwood led a team comprising AC members Ed Douglas, Nick Colton and Bruce Normand along with Christof Nettekoven.

Read more: Takphu Himal

Tony Streather

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Parent Category: People in the news
Created: Monday, 05 November 2018 09:09

We are saddened to receive news of the death on the 31st October of our Honorary Member Tony Streather, President of the Club 1990-1992 and a member of the Kangchenjunga first ascent team in 1955.

A celebration of his life will be held in St John the Baptist Church, Hindon, Wiltshire, on 1st December, at 12pm..

Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2018/nov/07/tony-streather-obituary

 

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Reciprocal arrangement with the Oread Mountaineering Club

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Parent Category: News
Created: Thursday, 01 November 2018 17:03

The Club has a reciprocal agreement with the Oread Mountaineering Club covering the use of each others huts.

The OMC operate two huts, one at Rhydd-Ddu in Snowdonia, and one near Baslow in the Derbyshire Peak District. Details can be found on the OMC website (www.oread.co.uk)

AC members may book places at both Oread huts. Requests should be sent to the booking secretary Michael Hayes (This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. ). AC members will pay the Members’ overnight rate, and will be entitled to use the Members Room at Rhydd-Ddu.

The Derbyshire hut is small, with only 10 places. At weekends a party wishing to use the hut has to book all 10 places, but individual mid-week bookings are possible.

Anglo-New Zealand Kishtwar Expedition 2018

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Parent Category: News
Created: Wednesday, 31 October 2018 20:17

Flat Top, The North Spur is Centre Right and the East Ridge is on the left

The Anglo-New Zealand Kishtwar is a bit of a grand name for Richard “Reg” Measures’ and my (both AC members) trip to the Indian Himalaya – originally Steve Fortune from New Zealand was going to join us as well, but two months before departing, work commitments meant he was unable too.

The aims of the trip were to make the first ascent of the North Spur of Flat Top (6100m) and the South Face of the Kishtwar Eiger (circa 6000m). Ultimately we were unsuccessful on attempts on both of these peaks due to unseasonably bad weather.

Read more: Anglo-New Zealand Kishtwar Expedition 2018

Sir John Johnson

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Parent Category: People in the news
Created: Tuesday, 30 October 2018 10:59

It is with sadness that we report the news of the death of our member, Sir John Johnson, on the 15th October.

Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

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Report 28 October 2018

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Parent Category: News
Created: Monday, 29 October 2018 13:14

Some brief information for this (French) holiday week.

The forecast is for bad weather for most of the week, (rain/snow, strong winds and poor visibility.) Already yesterday 30cms of snow fell above 2000m.  

Unlike at the beginning of this autumn, conditions for hiking are no longer ideal. The paths are greasy and with snow above 1800m, the way is often hidden. Therefore, the higher paths are reserved for experienced hikers, (with good boots and sticks.) Treks over several days are no longer really feasible.

The paths beneath the lift cables up to the Plan de l'Aiguille are provisionally closed by council order until 31 December.

Both the weather and conditions do not favour high mountain activity, (mixed routes very dry and the rock climbs plastered.)

More Articles ...

  1. Report 15th October 2018
  2. Spirit of Mountaineering Commendation
  3. Piolets d'Or 2018
  4. Report 5th October 2018

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